Published in suBLURBan: a little guide book to Melbourne, as part of the Melbourne Writers Festival, August 2007

Sydney Road is Brunswick’s famous thoroughfare. Take an Upfield line train to Jewell, Brunswick, or Anstey stations and head east to get to Sydney Road. (Street art aficionados should take a stroll along the bike track that runs along the train line to check out the graffiti murals.) Alternatively, take the number 19 tram from Elizabeth Street in the city and hop off anywhere after Brunswick Road (stop number 19).

The south end of Sydney Road has recently become its fashion centre with boutiques Mikaila, The Dressing Room, Clad and Quirky opening for business. Olive Grove sells locally crafted designs while Lulamae specialises in secondhand treasures. Romany Woman can service all of your bellydancing supply needs while True Blue Shoes offers a huge range of quality discounted footwear.

Foodies are spoiled for choice. Funky café Tom Phat offers a delectable spread of Asian-inspired dishes. For melt-in-your-mouth Italian cuisine, visit Piazza 51 for dinner. The local Lebanese bakeries are a must – try A1 bakery for cheap lunches or Alasya for delicious baklava. And La Manna Fresh is an award-winning greengrocer, offering fantastic fresh produce as well as continental delicacies and a huge range of nuts and legumes.

For a quiet drink, pop in to the laid back Brunswick Green – or for a noisy one, try the Retreat. The Cornish Arms has local beers on tap and is one of Melbourne’s most loved folk, blues and roots venues. For visual culture, visit the Counihan Gallery at the Brunswick Town Hall, or catch some grass roots theatre at the Mechanic’s Institute.

While Sydney Road may be quintessential Brunswick, Lygon Street’s top end is blossoming. Tram numbers 1 and 8 from Swanston Street will take you there via Carlton, past the Melbourne General Cemetery (consider a quick stop to visit the Elvis memorial or grab a pastry at French bakery Filou across the road). Hop off the tram at Brunswick Road (stop 120) and start exploring. Singh’s is a fabulous Indian restaurant which still retains the (quite hilarious) décor of its Italian predecessor. Various cafes, such as Small Block, serves huge breakfasts and long lunches. Gelo Bar is an essential stop for gelati treats. Fashion boutiques are springing up everywhere, many promoting local design talent. And further north, the East Brunswick Club is a good, old-fashioned Aussie pub, albeit with half a dozen chicken parmas to choose from on the bistro menu.

The side streets of Brunswick have also had a renaissance, with cafes and shops popping up all over the place. A Minor Place in Albion Street serves wholesome organic delights amid milk crate-cool décor, while in Victoria Street you’ll find Turkish-influenced café Ray, the Negrita Coffee shop and tiny boutiques. Pussycat Black in Edward Street is entirely stocked by Melbourne-based fashion designers. Albert Street boasts the homely La Paloma, with its short but excellent Spanish-style menu and cheap coffee, and Brunswick Books, a rambling secondhand wonderland.

Finally, organic farming and sustainable living fans should check out Ceres Community Environment Park, corner of Roberts and Stewart Streets, East Brunswick (take the number 96 tram to the end of the line and walk the rest). Buy some native plants, grab a snack at the café, buy some produce at the market and check out the wormfarms.